Allow me to introduce you to Erik Martella https://erikmartellawines.com/ , a winemaker who received his initial training while working in the wine industry in California. As a wine maker and winery manager in California Erik has developed an impressive resume working for many well known and easily recognizable vineyards and wineries over the span of over two decades.
Now Erik calls North Carolina home and he has embarked on a mission and vision that is a bit hard to comprehend but admired and appreciated by many.
He wants to make #AmericanFineWine from native vinifera indigenous to the Southeastern United States using a combination of both European and non-European vilification techniques.
Let me be blunt.
He dares to make “fine wine” from muscadine grapes.
I know for many of you reading this the odds are likely you are not a big fan of vitis rotundofolia (aka muscadine) grapes. I would also venture a more than educated guess that it is the very distinct bouquet or aroma as well as the “foxy” nature of the finished product that are among the reasons why this varietal is not among your favorites. You are also likely not a fan of overly sweet wines.
Now, enter Erik Martella, a man who I feel is destined to change the way many people feel about muscadine wine. How do I know this? Because I was fortunate to experience these wines for myself along with a gourmet meal complete with North Carolina wine history and a private guest list all hosted by a Certified Sommelier.
Let me explain more about Erik and his wines.
Erik has a rather unique approach to making wines that I am sure will bode well for him. He makes wines in “tiers” or controlled groups based on varietal and vilification methods.
His “workshop” series of wines are what one would term “experimental” where he is trying uniquely different methods of vilification and frankly a bit unsure of what the final product/outcome will be. Wines that show promise on this level are “promoted” to the “Perennial Series”.
The Perennial Series consists of wines that utilize conventional wine making techniques and have shown consistency and are considered “go to” wines. Currently Erik's Perennial Series consists of: CVB Sparkling, Summer Kitchen, Grandmother’s House and Stockinette.
Recently I was invited to a very special dinner – special to me on so many levels.
First it was hosted by my dear friend Certified Sommelier Jeremy Stamps where along with his co owner wife Krystle they own The Wisdom Table located in downtown Elkin https://www.wisdomtable.com/.
I have been friends with this dynamic duo for over 5 years. Krystle has been the creative seamstress behind the majority of my coordinated bow ties, pocket squares (and even during the pandemic matching face masks) that have endured me to many over the years.
Not only was the place special as well as the hosts special to me but the meal was prepared and orchestrated by Chef Tim Thompson also of the Wisdom Table. I have sampled his cuisine multiple times and gained a great deal of respect for his culinary prowess along the way.
So when these two agreed to host a wine dinner featuring fine muscadine wines it is safe to say that my interest was piqued.
So, lets talk about this exquisite dinner and the cutting-edge wines that were served.
FIRST COURSE
Sunday Southern Church Social
Deviled Egg with Duck Cracklin
Summer Kitchen 2022 Carlos – Press and Ferment
and Workshop Method No. 05-S- 2023 Carlos Selective Harvest
I am a huge fan of deviled eggs and have had them made in a myriad of many different ways. My sister (Vickie) makes the best deviled eggs in the world but these were a very close second.
The addition of the duck cracklin added texture and a bit of saltiness to balance the creaminess of the egg which paired well with the acid in both wines. Personally I preferred the Workshop Method No. 05-S- 2023 Carlos Selective Harvest with this dish and attributed it to the stainless steel aging heightening the fruit and acidity in this wonderful wine.
During the recent NC Wine Competition both the Workshop Method No. 05-S- 2023 Carlos Selective Harvest and the Summer Kitchen 2022 Carlos – Press and Ferment were both awarded a silver medals.
SECOND COURSE
Crab Cake
Pimento Cheese Grit Cake with Tomato Confit & Sunflower Micro Greens
Workshop Method No. 03 2023 Carlos – Carbonic Maceration
The southern theme of the meal continued during the second course with pimento cheese. What could be more southern that the “pate of the south” aka: Carolina caviar”? When combined with the crab atop a grit cake the result was a culinary masterpiece that was as aesthetically pleasing to the eye as it was delicious on the palate.
This course was served with Carlos done using the carbonic maceration technique and the result was a wine with a more subdued muscadine aroma but packed a ton of flavor, fruit and acid from the varietal.
In case you are not familiar with carbonic maceration, whole clusters of grapes are placed in a tank and filled with carbon dioxide. A process that actually starts the fermentation process within the grape itself without breaking the skins or crushing the grape. For reference, recall the flavor of a Beaujolais from Burgundy where this technique has been used for centuries.
THIRD COURSE
Chicken Soubise
In Voul-au-vent with Lima Bean Mousse & Baby Carrot
Workshop Method No. 6 2022 Carlos Seed Contact
In case you are not familiar with “soubise” it is a thick smooth sauce usually made from cooked onions and a béchamel sauce. This was an incredibly savory dish that reminded me of Sunday afternoon dinners after church. The plating and presentation were well executed with the finished product presented in a pastry nest. Paired with lima bean and carrot this umami combination cried out for the acid and fruit of the Carlos wine it was paired with.
But just to illustrate what a “mad scientist” approach Erik has taken on in his quest this particular wine spent some time not resting on the lees (deposits of dead and residual leftover yeast plus particulate} from the winemaking process) but actually resting in contact with ground crushed grape seeds and hulls.
Where one might expect this to impart a bitter phenolic taste to the wine it actually resulted in a wine with amazing mouth feel. During the recent NC Wine Competition the Workshop Method No. 6 2022 Carlos Seed Contact was awarded a bronze medal.
FOURTH COURSE
Spiral Style Duck Breast
Pineapple glaze, maraschino cherry, Braised green beans, sweet potato puree
Grandmother's House 2022 Carlos Carbonic Maceration
Ever since my days as the maître d at Second Empire Restaurant and Tavern in downtown Raleigh I have been a fan of duck breast especially when combined with a five spice blend. This unique combination of flavors is becoming more common on restaurant menus across the country and around the world.
As you can see by the picture the duck was cooked to a perfect medium rare allowing it to remain succulent and juicy. The braised green beans added a savory note while the cherry and pineapple flavors brought sweetness and balance to the dish.
During the recent NC Wine Competition the Grandmother's House 2022 Carlos Carbonic Maceration was awarded a silver medal. When paired with this course the flavors were exquisite and masterfully executed.
FIFTH COURSE
Cheerwine Braised Pork Shoulder
Sweet Corn Cake, Shaved Red Cabbage, Braising Jus
Workshop Method 03 2023 Noble Carbonic Maceration &
Stockinette 2023 Noble Juicy Carbonation
If you are not aware that Cheerwine was discovered in North Carolina, let me educate you. Cheerwine was discovered over a century ago in Salisbury and it’s unique sweet cherry flavor has made it’s way into everything from barbecue sauce to cupcakes to sangria. I was not surprised to see it as an ingredient in the braised pork shoulder we was served with red cabbage and a sweet corn cake that would make any southern boy like me drool.
With this course we were served two distinct versions of Noble that both featured some form of carbonic maceration. The sweetness of the Cheerwine and tannins in the Noble were in harmony with the braised pork while the carbonic maceration tamed the foxy notes of the Noble while enhancing the richness of the dish. To be honest, it was difficult to pick a favorite between the two when paired with this course.
And no wonder why, during the recent NC Wine Competition the Workshop Method 03 2023 Noble was awarded "Best Muscadine Red" as well as double gold.
The Stockinette 2023 Noble Juicy Carbonation was awarded a silver medal.
SIXTH COURSE
Peach and Basil Sonker
Whipped Feta & Ginger Snap Soil
CVB Sparkling 2021
60% Carlos, 40% Vidal Blanc – Charmat Method
For those of you who have never experienced a “sonker” it is a traditional desert from the Yadkin Valley area of North Carolina in Surry County where it has been enjoyed for many generations. There is even a local Sonker festival in the area annually. Don’t call it a cobbler; a sonker has a much more loose-fitting crust that tends to sink down in the middle while baking.
The sweetness of the peach and the slight tart sour flavor of the feta were the perfect backdrop for the Erik Martella CVB Sparkling which was a delightful blend of Carlos and Vidal Blanc. Light, refreshing with perfect balance it was by far my favorite wine of the evening and a true testimony to the potential that his winemaker possesses.
During the recent NC Wine Competition the CVB Sparkling 2021 was awarded a bronze medal. It is safe to say based on his impressive showing at the recent NC Wine competition, his wines are indeed award worthy. In my opinion this is just a precursor of things to come. I assure you as more people try his unique style of wines he will develop more fans.
At the conclusion of the meal, Kara Daly from @wineisconfusing stated “…this dinner showed me that muscadine is a food wine, and it really should be experienced with regional food…”
With this exceptional meal under my belt and now a distant but distinct memory I am very confident that Erik Martella and his team are well on their way to accomplishing several objectives he intends to focus on:
1. Embrace the unique aroma characteristics and acid profile of muscadine grapes
2. Exhibit balance and complexity
3. Elevate the foods and lifestyles of the regions where muscadines are grown
4. Differentiate themselves from the traditional (sweet/flavored)style of muscadine wine in the way they express alcohol, sweetness and acidity
5. Have the ability to age well.
I am sure you would agree that these are lofty goals for any winemaker with virtually any varietal; when you take into consideration that in this case the varietal is the "much maligned muscadine" his goals are nothing less than utopian. Having sampled his wines and experienced firsthand how harmoniously they can pair with wine as well as his recent showing during the NC Wine Competition, I would be willing to bet he most certainly will achieve these lofty goals.
Erik Martella is about to change the way many feel about Muscadine wines and for me that is “good news”. Anyone who has read my blog or followed me on social media is aware that I don’t make my love, respect and admiration for muscadine wine or grapes a secret. As I once told someone I could have easily been “Merlot2Malbec” or even “Merlot2Muscato”. I was very deliberate in the name Merlot2muscadine and although advised by a few to exclude the term muscadine I have never regretted it. In addition, I have used this platform to not only honor this humble varietal but to encourage those who are not fans to give it a try.
In conclusion, Erik Martella is indeed going to bring good news about this often-misunderstood grape and for this reason I have dubbed him “the messiah of Muscadine.” Like our true Messiah he brings “good news” and I am confident that he will spread the word about the much maligned muscadine grape. Please note that I deliberately did not capitalize the "m" in messiah so that it is clear I am not referring to my Lord and Savior Jesus Christ.
And as for my muscadine hating wife, let's just say that she too has become a disciple and experienced the good news firsthand - you can make fine wine from muscadine grapes.
Go experience his wines for yourself which are currently available at the Wisdom Table https://www.wisdomtable.com/ in downtown Elkin as well as Windsor Run Cellars https://www.windsorrun.com/ located in Hamptonville, NC . When you do, let me know what you think.
Comments